Hong Kong

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Hong Kong (click image for panorama)

Hong Kong, city of tall buildings.  At least that's how I would describe it.  You'd be hard pressed to find a building less than 10 stories tall and I suspect the average height is higher.  Maybe I missed some suburb area with single story houses but as far as I could tell there is no such area.  It's all tall buildings.

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New vs.. Old

Tokyo has tall buildings but I'd bet the average is more like 3 to 5 stories.

The second thing that stuck out to me is there's 2 kinds of buildings.  Brand spankin new tall glass skyscrapers and condos and then there's grungy old dirty apartment buildings. Sometimes they are right next to each other.  I'm curious what makes them so dirty.  Is it because it's a humid area so mold and other stuff grows quickly? Is it because the air is dirty and so dust and dirt collects on them?  If you know please tell me.  My hotel had a warning message left in my room about how they have to work hard to keep the windows clean so don't get startled if the you find a window cleaner outside your window once in a while.


Well lived in

Here's one of the dirty buildings.  You can probably see all the *living* going on.

I signed up for this vacation with a large travel agency in Japan (JTB).  So large that they have their own ticketing spaces at several airports and they have people to take you to and from the airport to the hotels.  You can even sign up for complete tour packages where every place, every meal and every thing else is already planned for you.  It's probably not a bad idea sometimes and it would save you the trouble of having to plan any of it yourself.

For me I just signed up for the plane and hotel but they included the bus to and from the airport to the hotel along with a guide.  The guides give out there cell phone number and say call them if you have any questions, need a suggestion or get lost.


Party on the bridge!!

The guide explained that Hong Kong is a mountainous area and that all the people live between the mountains and the ocean and therefore as there is no land they can only build up.  All the buildings from the airport to downtown were 30 story apartment buildings

One thing that made me happy, I understood about 90% of the explanation the guide gave to everybody about Hong Kong even though it was all in Japanese.

Hong Kong the city is divided by water into two major parts.  Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.  There is major city on both parts though my impression was more living in Kowloon and more city on Hong Kong Island.  On Hong Kong Island, many of the downtown buildings are connected by bridges and elevated walkways


Escalator Street

One thing that was interesting to me is that people seemed to be having picnics on these bridges.  Thousands of people.  They'd put down a blanket, pull out the food and games and have their picnic.  I can only assume that there's just no where else to do it so they've resorted to the only space there is to do such a thing.

Hong Kong has the world's longest outdoor covered escalator.  Actually it's not just one long escalator it's a bunch of short consecutive ones but it goes for about 800 meters or 1/2 a mile.  Only up. You have to walk back down.  It's kind of cool to ride and escalator through town. Almost like something out of the Jetsons.

It goes near Hong Kong's Soho area where there's supposedly lots of restaurants.  I guess I saw a few but it didn't stick out to me.  Maybe I just missed the correct street.  I only took the escalators about half what up I think.

Other thing I found interesting is that Hong Kong money appears to be issued by several different banks.  Above you can see 3 different styles of 20 dollar bills.  At the time I went (August 2001) 1 dollar equaled about 7 Hong Kong dollars.  Prices in terms of U.S. dollars are about the same as the U.S. or slightly cheaper but you have to divide by 7 so at first it's hard to buy a drink for 23 dollars until you realize that's about 3 dollars U.S.


Too many coins

There's also lots of different coins. I wonder which country has the most coins in use.  In the states we have the penny, nickel, dime, quarter which are often used and then there's the very very seldom used 50 cent piece, silver dollar and Susan B. Anthony.  I guess that makes 7 but as we only use 4 of them it seems like less.  In Hong Kong they have 7 also but they use all 7.  Not only that but some of them are BIG and HEAVY.  The 10 dollar and 5 dollar coins are each about 3 times thicker than a U.S. quarter.


Typical Kowloon Street

One day I went to the Kowloon side of Hong Kong by myself.  I went to Sham Shui Po which is where a large computer mall is that me friend Voon had introduced me to the day before.  Think of it like a computer swap meet except each exhibitor has a permanent space and of course all software is pirated.  I think only big business buys legit software in Hong Kong.

I found an 8 story local mall.  On the 8th floor was an arcade, an ice rink and an indoor roller coaster.  That's also where I took the above picture from.


Signs Galore

Hong Kong is also famous for it's hanging signs I think.  Before I went to Hong Kong I had seen pictures like this but I think I always assumed it was just one or two special streets.


Night time signs

Well in fact it's practically every single street.  Some of the signs are enormous and some streets have so many signs it looks like they could probably provide rain cover.

The scary thing about them is they are all hang way over the street with nothing but a few cables holding them up.  I'm curious how often they come crashing down.  Hong Kong doesn't have earthquakes but they do have crazy tropical storms and typhoons that supposedly ruin windows, buildings and lives.  Seems like they'd take down a few signs even easier.


Bird Street

One day I checked out the Yuen Po St. Bird Garden and the surrounding area.

It's a place where there are about 20 or more stores that sell various kinds of birds.  I read that the prettier the voice the more they go for.

It was pretty cool to see so many birds.  Literally there are hundreds of not thousands of birds many in very very ornate cages. I have no idea what the different kinds of birds are.  Some stores just sell cages.  There are even special places to hang the birds as part of the *park*.


A Bird's best friend

Even more interesting though for me was the bird food a couple of different shops were selling.  Can you guess what this women on the right is selling?  Is it bird seed?  Nope.  Some kind of special grass or plant?  Nope.

It's GRASSHOPPERS!!!!.  LIVE ONES all wiggling around inside those bags.  I always thought meal worms were kind of gross (yea, they had those too) and even crickets but crickets are small.  These grasshoppers were like 3 to 4 inches long.  If that's the price of keeping a bird I don't think I could do it.  How about you?


Live Bird Food

After that I checked out Flower Market Road which is right next door to the Bird Gardens.  All kind of flowers being sold in about 20 or 30 flower shops.


Flower Street

Something a little more random, on the Kowloon side there is a very large mall called Harbour City with over 700 stores.  It's actually 4 different buildings but they are all connected internally so it's considered all one mall.


Star Trek Mall

The second building I went into is C shaped and although I guess this shows the geek in me, after walking around the first floor for a while I realized that this mall looks like a set from Star Trek.  All you'd have to do is change the store displays.  The hallways are slightly curved, they are made from brushed aluminum or stainless steal.  It's actually a little freaky.

That particular part of the mall seemed to have quite a few high end stereo stores for audiophiles types.  Not my kind of thing but...

Finally the last night I went up to the bar in my hotel, the Sherton.  It's sits on the Kowloon side and faces Hong Kong Island from the 18th floor so there's a great view.

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Night Skyline (click image for panorama)

I regret not taking more pictures.  For whatever reason I really wasn't in the mood to shoot everything.  Maybe because it was so hot.  Fortunately I'm use to it from Tokyo so I came prepared with a bunch of sweat towels and a fan.  I would have been a mess without the towels and they got pretty darn soaked before the end of the day.  So soaked that they were not dry by the next day.

Another idea I had was that I could just get a book with better pictures than I could take which actually I did but it then I realized that I can't legally post those pictures here to share so you'll just have to either visit me or go visit Hong Kong yourself.

 

Or wait for me to go again


All images not copyright me copyright their respective companies. Everything else copyright me.
Comments:

city skyline [ e ]

My co-worker (who grew up there) who I'm sitting next to right now says that the skyline used to be brighter at night. They're trying to save electricity now.

He also mentioned he lived in an apartment building like you have pictured (the old grungy ones) and he says it was kind of scary but he got used to it.

posted by hummbabyAugust 28, 2002 at 11:48

Town picnic [ e ]

Hi

I went to HK a few years back and was as shocked as you about the picnic party in HK Island.  I dont know if you noticed but all the people having the picnic are Phillipino.  The majority of the Phillipinos are low waged workers (maids) and have one day off a week - they have no where to go so they congress and have what looks like a picnic.

posted by anon_KTMarch 12, 2003 at 10:49

[ e ]

hihi

My guess for why it's so dirty (the buildings) is 'cuz of the congestion. Logic tells me that because those commercial and residential areas are melanged and because of the constant (and the large amount of) traffic, it blows lots of dust and smoke into the air that latch onto the buildings.

But wow, I never realized that there were so many signs! I realized there were signs all over the place but I never noticed that they portruded out so much. Only from your photo did I notice that.

Wow, those pans. There's actually a camera lens that can actually take in such a wide angle?! (I know nothing about photography--although I would take a course if my school had one) I really appreciate ^^ the photo logs you have though!

posted by pkApril 5, 2003 at 20:13

other reasons [ e ]

Another reason it might be so dirty is because it's a tropical area so it rains a lot.

As for the pans, they are made from multiple pictures.  At a glance it looks like one picture but if you look close you can see the seams.  I'm sure it's not the best but the software I use is ULead's Cool 360

posted by greggmanApril 6, 2003 at 1:34

hehe... [ e ]

I am in hong kong as I am typing my comment...Many of the grungy buildings are really old, and along with the humid weather, and mould, they end up looking all dirty and yuck. Yes, the filipino maids congress on the bridges having their picnics on Sunday.  Go to Wan Chai by the ferry and you will see a lot there.  If you look from the kowloon side, tst, or tsim sha tsui over to the hk island side, central, where all the big commercial buildings are, it looks much better than looking from hk island over to the kowloon side...you can probably remember the Epson, Panasonic, Sharp and A/A signs atop the buildings... Oh by the way...to get up to the Peak you can take the tram which costs about 4 dollars canadian one way and view hk on the terrace...it looks really nice at night than during the day...and there is a nice restaurant called Marche which offers a 50% discount on your order if you arrive after 10 pm...but they close at 11pm so you have to eat fast and be able to catch the tram back down....its located between central and admiralty...also afterwards you can go to Lan Kwai Fong (high end bar area...mostly business people, some filipino prostitues, caucasians, and the older crowd) for drinks its not really worth it cos its about 25 canadian dollars for a long island iced tea and other drinks are also as expensive.  For the younger crowd theres a nice cyber disco in tsim sha tsui where most of the 'goo wac jai' the kinda gang people hang out at this joint most.  Hong Kong air is crappy cos everytime i go out i have some trouble breathing cos of my asthma and also cos the air is thick and heavily polluted.  The signs I think are pretty cool but like u said is in the way for destruction during typhoons.  skyline is beautiful, its much like another NY. worth going to hk for vacation, but not for living unless you got a good income

posted by anon_bumblebeebabyMay 19, 2003 at 8:53

Possible answer to 'dirty buildings' [ e ]

Hello friends! I am a local residents in Hong Kong and it is nice to hear people living outside here visited my home.

The area of the old buildings you visited (shown in "Signs Galore" and "Typical Kowloon Street") is one of the oldest district in Hong Kong (it is called "Sham Shui Po"). All the buildings were built for more than 30 and even 40 years.

The reason of these buildings are getting so old is not mainly caused by the humid weather here, but the living habit of Hong Kong People. Hong Kong People loved to purchase new apartments when they have money. So when the building gets old, or they have more family members after a period of time (e.g. say 15 years), they will buy a new apartment, and sell their apartment in a lower price to other people who can only afford a cheap apartment. And 10 to 15 years later, these people will go away too, and people from a lower class will get in.

This creates a problem: the people living in there just getting poorer and poorer, and they do not have to money to tidy up the place they lived, or even to repair the building!

It became a social issue in Hong Kong since mid-1980s, they government in Hong Kong intented to rebuild these buildings with the help of market force. But it seemed not to be very effective. Now the government is trying to 'revitalize' the community and hope the every people inside it can use their idea to renew the place again.

Though it was only a beginning, 10 or 20 years, when you come to Hong Kong again, they may be changed a lot!

It you would like to know more about this topic, you can visit:

www.ura.org.hk (the site of Urban Renewal Authority, Hong Kong)

posted by HongkongerSeptember 9, 2003 at 6:18

[ e ]

I just moved here from the U.S. (Chicago).  The escalator (I live about 100m from it on one of the many streets it intersects) goes down in the AM until 10, then it reverses direction and goes back up.  In Soho, there are many, many restaurants, just about for any taste you want.  Except the for the taco place there (yuck) most of them are fairly decent, even if they are a little overpriced since most of the expats live in that area.

Why I think the buildings are so dirty is because 1) pollution, and 2) age.  It doesn't help that there is barely any separation from the street (just a sidewalk usually) and the buildings.  But usually, the 1st 2 or so floors are nice and if you look above them, then they look crappy.

H.K. is like Chicago rush hour, except that it last for the whole day !  You can get just about anything you want because there are so many stores.

posted by BillSeptember 10, 2003 at 1:27

Kowloon vs hong kong island [ e ]

 

Hi i will be staying in hong kong for 3 days on the 24th till the 27th. I am looking for cheap accomodation. Is it better to stay in kowloon vs hong kong island.

I had many comments made about the Chunking Mansions and Mirador Mansions saying there a lot of dodgy people around. I heard it is really good to stay in nathan road.

If i stayed in hong kong island does it take a long time to get from place to place.

thx

posted by kiwiballerNovember 30, 2004 at 19:48

HK [ e ]

This is probably the wrong place to ask. I'm not an expert on HK.  Kowloon and HK Island are connected by subway so you can get from one to the other very quickly.  As for a cheap place to stay I really have no idea.

posted by greggmanDecember 1, 2004 at 18:41

Hong Kong rocks [ e ]

I love Hong Kong...it's my favorite city in Asia...I think just becasue of the multi-cultural nature of it, the great food, and how it's built around the water....

The first time I went there I stayed at the Hotel Furama (since torn down) which is right next to where most of the Filipina's congregate on Sunday...a friend told me to go out and walk around...and it was definately quite the experience....Tagalog is not a quite language LOL

Places to check out....the peak is ok, great view if the weather is nice, Stanley Market is fun, take a ferry out to Chow Chung or another outer island for lunch, Lan Kwai Fong for dinner and a bar or two (I like Insomnia), Wan Chai for more bars (Dusk till Dawn is fun).

I've been there many times and I'm still scratching the surface...I need to spend more time in Kowloon....I've done the shopping thing on Nathan Rd.....

Coming from So. Cal. I was surprised at the very tall, very skinny buildings, all one on top of the other...absolutely no earthquakes here!

posted by zggystardustMay 25, 2005 at 16:14

[ e ]

I have lived in HK for 15 years.  There are a few places in HK with single story houses, the south side of HK island (where I live) has hardly any buildings at all.  The areas of Repulse Bay, Stanley and Tai Tam are upscale housing districts (mostly for expats) and it is VERY different from Central or Kowloon.  The "picnics" that you noticed were Filipina helpers on their day off.  Every Sunday that part of Central is full of Filipinas, in fact that street is closed off to traffic for the purpose of giving these women somewhere to hang out and congregate without having to spend money, since they can't afford it.  The old buildings that you see, are just that, old!  The pollution in HK is bad, but not enough so to cause buildings to age that much faster.  There is always construction going on here, it seems like sometimes you can blink and when you look again, a new building has gone up.  But there are still many dilapidated and rundown buildings in between the larger and newer skyscrapers, especially in areas like Kowloon, Sham Shui Po, and Mong Kok.

posted by hkgirlMay 10, 2006 at 17:50

Hong Kong [ e ]

Probably the best spot to see Filipinas gathering is on any Sunday in Central in the park directly in front of the HSBC Building, and in the subway linking Chater Road to the Star Ferry Terminal.

Tsim Sha Tsui is a very good spot to stay in a hotel, particularly if you get a harbour and Hong Kong Island facing view. On the waterfront, Avenue of Stars is one of the best spots to view the Hong Kong skyline. If you get a chance, particularly on Saturday night, a show called the Symphony of Lights commences at 8pm (IIRC), and it is truly an amazing scene to watch.

 It's also very close and accessible by the MTR to other parts of Kowloon as well as Hong Kong Island. Don't call it subway in Hong Kong, because to the locals a subway is a pedestrian walkway crossing under a street. To get to Hong Kong Island, all one needs to do is take the MTR across the harbour. To get to Causeway Bay or Wan Chai, you get off at the next station (Admiralty), and walk across to the opposite platform and take a train one (Wan Chai) or two stops (Causeway Bay). To get to Central, you do not need to change trains.

It doesn't take long to travel between any locations along the northern side of Hong Kong Island, because they are all accessible by the MTR's Island Line or by walking a short distance.

Central can be confusing to walk around to tourists who are not familiar with the area. Most of the walkways near the harbour in Central are elevated or below ground, and walking across the road is prohibited in these areas.

The odd thing about many apartment buildings in Hong Kong is that the outside often looks dilapidated and run down, but inside the apartments they are well fitted out and modern. Not true in all cases though.

posted by andrewMay 20, 2006 at 19:04

The attitude [ e ]

I have been in HK a few times for business.  What really strikes me is how superficial they can get.  Money and outlook seems to be the only way they value people.  Since i am from italy, i thought people are too obessessed with the outlook.. Obviously we are not the worst :P

posted by cristinaJune 29, 2006 at 11:59

thanks! [ e ]

On my second trip to HK I've decided to take the time to get to lknow the place and appreciate your blog post! I may even be living here soon; we'll see... Anyway, loved your details, well-shot photos, and point of view, thanks.

posted by ChrisJuly 5, 2006 at 16:28

7 coins seems a lot? [ e ]

In the UK they use 1,2,5,10,20, and 50 pence coins, plus 1 and 2 pound ones as well, giving 8 altogether.   Like the US with it's almost-never used 1 dollar coin the UK also has a 5 pound coin that's legal tender, but is mainly just for collectors.

I guess that's the legacy of Brit influence on HK?

And all 8 UK ones are in regular use.  I don't find it a problem since I grew up there but when I take my american wife to the UK sometimes she hates trying to deal with the money

posted by SteCorkOctober 12, 2006 at 9:18

[ e ]

Hi, Im moving to Hong Kong in October 2007 to be based centrally in Asia for where I need to travel for my job.  I will be working from home (apartment) and travelling to Japan/Korea/India/Australia which is why i decided to base myself in Hong Kong.  I am from Ireland and will be living on my own (or sharing?).  I would like to live somewhere nice with reasonable rent, close to beach and dont mind travelling to airport eg: 45 mins.  Ive never been there (am looking at it online!) and repulse bay seems nice (ex pat area) but v expensive.  Can anyone recommend a good auctioneer/agent to help me find accomodation.  Rent up to HK2,500 per month maybe?

posted by LynneApril 12, 2007 at 7:03

[ e ]

this was a great read, I have always been curious about hong kong.  Thanks for the story and the accompanying photos.

posted by pointybunnyDecember 9, 2007 at 18:27

[ e ]

I dunno if this has been said before but a couple things:

1) The buildings decay is due to both of the things you mention. The humidity ages whatever paint they put on the buildings quicker, and the dirt and grime certainly doesn't help the look of the buildings.

2) The picnics you saw are actually not that often. Filipinos (actually Filipinas) have one day off during the week when thousands of them (there are over 140,000 of them in Hong Kong) all flock to Central and congregate. It's actually quite a phenomenon, but quite annoying (at least to me)

and to Lynne, I suppose you're in HK already, but you'll be hard pressed to find a place for rent so cheap yet meet the qualifications you need. If you found a place, that congratulations! You've probably got the deal of the decade.

posted by gladisDecember 14, 2007 at 2:07