|

White blossoms near
Otemachi
|
You may have seen Japan associated with cherry blossoms or maybe you've seen
one of the hundreds of video games with falling cherry blossoms on one of its screens
or one of the 1000s of videos with falling cherry blossoms during its titles. I know I
have. Now I know why.
The first time I came to Japan in 1996 cherry blossom season had just
ended. Generally around the beginning to middle of April Japan's cherry
trees (or Sakura) blossom like popcorn suddenly appearing throughout a
tree. One day the tree is a barren winter tree. The next day it's
full of white or pink sakura blossoms.
|

Just a few more days
|
There's no way of really knowing exactly when it will happen which makes
planning to visit Japan to see them somewhat of a problem. Depending on
the weather that year it could happen as early as mid March or as late as mid
April. Once they bloom they only last about a week. After 2 weeks
all of the trees have finished and it's over.
I had no idea how beautiful and amazing a site it really is. This year
(2001) my winter semester ended on March 27th. On March 28th I went to Otemachi
(near Tokyo) to get my visa changed to a student visa. The government
office was too busy but it's very near the moat around the Imperial Palace in
Tokyo and around the moat are Sakura trees. Just 3 of them had bloomed
that day.
Every year the Japanese plan to Hanami (go to a park, picnic and view the
Sakura blossoms. hana = flower, mi = look). Depending on where you go and
who you go with it can be a pretty crazy time. Many parties just bring an
ton of alcohol and drink themselves loud and silly until late at night. In
fact I was warned by several Japanese friends about old loud men in parks for
Hanami.
|

Grandma trying to stay
warm
|
My classmates had decided to hanami the following Sunday as it was forecast
to be the best day for it. Our teacher recommended a park by her place in
Yoga on the Den-en-toshi line a few stops from Shibuya. I really had no
idea what to expect.
Even worse, the day before it SNOWED! It
was nearly freezing outside and snowflakes were hitting our taxi's windshield. That's not normal for late March in Tokyo. So, I was kind of worried that
we were all going to go to this park and there was going to be nothing to see.
|

On the way to the park
|
After waiting almost 30 minutes for a few late people we took off for the
park. It was about a 10 or 15 minute walk from the station. It was
relatively easy to find. Just follow all the other people out for Hanami.
We got to the park, which is a relatively big park, and from where we entered
it looked like we were going to be disappointed. Very few trees near the
entrance were blooming. The park is separated into 2 parts though.
The front part is where pets are allowed. The rear part they are not.
It took us a while to reach the rear as there were so many people trying to get
in and there was a snack bar and a few food stands setup that were of course
causing a little bit of slow down. 
|

THE REAL THING!!!
|
When we got to the rear part I was blown away. I was in no way
expecting GIANT TREES COVERED WITH POPCORN. I don't know how else to
describe it. It's amazing! The giant trees were entirely covered
with large white clumps of flowers. No green. Just very dark almost
black branches and nearly pure white blossoms. So many that you can almost
not see the trees.
|

Awesome
|
What can you say? I just stood and gapped in awe at all the white.
It's kind of like just after the first big snow when everything is white except
in this case you aren't freezing.
My friend Atsuko said "Sakura are part of the Japanese soul."
I can see why. This is clearly a special time for Japan. I think it
would be in any country with an event like this.
For many things this event marks the beginning and or end of lots of stuff in
Japan. It's the time when most companies do their major hiring. It's
the time when students graduate. You can see many girls walking around in
kimono and riding trains which I guess is something that is often worn to one's graduation.
I didn't see any men wearing anything special though. Their loss I think.
|

Really, it's not popcorn
|
It's the time when one year of school is over and you advance to the
next. The classes at Digital Hollywood were ending and new ones starting.
It's also the time new people take office in government and when the
government makes it's new yearly budget. The down side to that is that the
month before the different departments are scrabbling to spend last years budget
so it won't get lowered this year and so they start ripping the streets up for
seemingly random reasons.
I don't know if the entire country goes Hanami but sometimes it seems that
way. I've seen parks where nearly every square inch of grass is covered
with plastic mats and people and getting to your mat is an exercise in trying
not to step on people.
|

Yes, the Japanese enjoy
Hanami
|
Speaking of which originally we were just going to show up at the park on
Sunday with basically no pre-planning but my teacher and I were a little
worried. People come early in the morning, like 6am and nail down a
plastic mat and write in big letters their party's name like "KAI Nihongo
School!" It's not common but also not that uncommon for fights to break
out over who has what space. Fortunately our teacher lives close to the
park so she was able to stake a claim for us.
|

The back of the park
(Click picture for larger image)
|
|

A 360 degree image (Click
picture to see all of it)
|
As you can see above it was pretty crowded though actually it was not as
crowed as I expected. I think this park might be a lesser known park then
say Ueno park which is fairly famous in Tokyo.
|

The line for the restroom
|
Here you can see the line for the women's restroom. I least *I* thought
it was interesting. I have no idea how
long it would take to get to the front of the line. I wonder what you do
if you have an emergency. Maybe you have to rap for it? (If you don't
get that you should go and play Parrapa the rapper
till you get to the fifth level where you have exactly that situation 
|

Outhouses? No, trash
houses
|
One other problem with crowds is garbage. One of the ways they deal
with that is they have large trashrooms. Not just trashcans but
trashrooms. I didn't stay to see the park after everybody left but
my impression was that it was going to end up relatively clean. Especially
compared to say the mall park in Washington DC after the 4th of July which was a
complete dump when I was there on a July 5th in 1987
|

Shidarezakura near
Otemachi
|
There are at least 2 kinds of sakura. Someiyoshino which are the white ones
and Shidarezakura the light pink ones. The park had a little of both but
most of the Shidarezakura were not blooming yet. I did see a few a few days earlier when I saw my first blossoms.
There are also some super pink trees. I'm not sure if they are sakura
or not but the are pretty. We saw a few here and there about Tokyo and
Kyoto. In fact at first there was an ad in some of the train stations for
a river area in Tokyo where there are lots of pink blossoms and at that time my
mom and Grandma had not seen anything but the white blossoms and so they thought
the ad or poster must have been touched up in something like Photoshop.
Well, I'm not going to say it wasn't but after seeing the real thing it was easy
to believe that the photo in the poster was real.
|

Someiyoshino in the
park
|
During this time there are also special foods. It seemed like a staple
of Japanese sweets but you find Anko in nearly everything. Anko is a sweet
paste made from beans. It's got a similar consistancy to Mexican refried
beans except Anko is a little more gritty, a little less powdery and it's
darker. There are at least 2 kinds. With beans still in the mush and
without (all mush). Kind of like orange juice. You can have it with
or without pulp.
Anko is put in all kinds of things. Inside bread kind of like a jelly
donut except Anko not jelly. This is called Anpan and there's even a famous
Japanese character called Anpaman who's head is an Anpan.
There's also deep fried anpan converted in sugar. It looks like a cross
between a sugar donut and a old fashion donut but in the shape of a jelly donut
as it's got anko inside. Also anko between to small pancakes is called
Imagawayaki or Doreyaki and is Doraemon's favorite food.
|

Sakura? I don't
know
|
Anyway, probably the most common Sakura blossom season food is made from
mochi (which is rice pounded into a dough). They add pink sakura petals to
the rice as it's being pounded so it comes out pink instead of white. Then
you take some, roll it into a tortilla shape, put some anko in the middle and
roll it up and then around that roll a cherry tree leaf. I'm not sure
where the leaves come from as there are none on the cherry trees. Our
teacher brought most of the food which she claimed she made all herself
including these pastries. That sure was nice of her.
|

Even fallen petals are
beautiful
|
Even fallen petals are beautiful. Once the trees bloom, almost
immediately the petals start to fall. I've been told on later days it can
look like it's snowing. Some people take a more cynical view, I heard them
say they look like used tissue paper sitting on the ground. I'm of the
"it's beautiful" camp. Especially watching them flutter down
from the trees as they fall.
|

A road on the way home
from the park
|
One thing that surprised my Mother and Grandmother was that Sakura trees are
everywhere. I guess they thought it was pretty much limited to a few parks
or special areas and then maybe some farms but walking around even a big city
like Tokyo you see Sakura everywhere. Of course unless you recognize
sakura trees when they are not blooming you'd have no idea there were so many.
|

Iidabashi
|
If you read my article about finding an
apartment in Tokyo then you might remember that last November I had
originally picked an apartment with a great view between Iidabashi and Ichigaya stations.
The realtors had both pointed out that it would be an even better view in the
spring when the sakura trees bloomed so I thought I should check it out
|

In front of my old
apartment
|
Here you can see the area in front of my old apartment. Yes, it is very
beautiful. It would have been very nice to see such a site every morning
for a week or too. Too bad it was so loud over there.
We also went to Kyoto the next day by
Shinkansen (bullet train) which is supposed to be famous for its beautiful
sakura trees and we did see quite a few there too including some lit up at
night. Extremely cool.
If you ever get the chance Hanami is definitely something you should
experience. 